It was the best of trips; it was the worst of trips.
Just kidding. Being in Munich for the Christmas markets was a treat. We traveled lightly to be out of the country for 16 daysātwo carryon suitcases and two backpacks. Go us! We checked the weather for weeks ahead of time. Same forecast as Pittsburgh. Our flight went smoothly and we arrived at our hotel not far from Marienplatz on November 29th. Perfect!
The snow started the next day. Just a bit of a sputter. Alex wore his Aslo hiking boots. I wore my cute blue Reikerās Remonte ankle boots, hot off the shelves at Squirrel Hillās Littles Shoes. He also took his On Clouds and I packed my Merrell Encores. Why am I giving so much shoe detail? Because the big guyās feet stayed warm and mine stayed mostly cold.
The following day there was a foot of snow and more coming down. We slogged through the flakes and slush to walk from the trolley to the Nymphenburg Palace. Dang if that site wasnāt the only minor disappointment of the trip. There are hundreds of rooms, however, you only get to tour twenty of themāthe main hall and wings off either side. Since it cost more than the Munich Residence Palace we visited the day before, we felt a bit let down.
Snow-covered Marienplatz
That evening as we strolled to the main Christmas Market at the Glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the scene resembled a Montana blizzard.
On December second, crews were attempting snow removal like Iāve only ever seen in Red Lodge, Montana. Hereās a picture of me standing in front of one of their works of art. Unlike Red Lodge, Munich doesnāt have rodeo grounds to cart it to for March Ski Joring competition. The snow simply kept piling up.
So did my sock collection. I thought Iād packed enough wool socks, but nope, I sure hadnāt. By the time we made it home, I had eight new pairs. A galās gotta have warm toes.
The snow finally drifted to a stop by the third. I just read a news article by a worldwide agency stating that the Christmas markets closed. That is incorrect. Past trips showed me that the Germans are a hearty bunch and they confirmed that this time. The markets were packed. People drank their hot mulled wine and cold bottled beer. They stood visiting as if it were a blooming spring day. I paused at one point and gazed around. Truly, had it been warm weather I donāt think it could have been more crowded or more relaxed. Was this woman who detests being cold jealous of their endurance? Or fuming at how well they wore the chill? A bit of both!
We Visited Christmas Markets Within Walking Distance
- Christkindlmarkt on Marienplatz (since the 14th century)
- Winter Magic at Viktualienmarkt (food!)
- Christmas Village in the Kaiserhof of the Residence (Palace)
- Munich Advent Extravaganza and Medieval Christmas Market
- Muencher Feueerzangenbowle (traditional Munich fire-tongs punch) at Isartor Gate (with (fake) fire shooting out of the roof!)
Each community market is each unique with some overlap in food and of course, mulled wine. Even with suitcase space taken up with new socks, we managed to bring home two mugs. Most markets have individualized glasses with their name on it. You can buy a drink with a return-deposit or pay for the mug and carry it off. And in my case, after four or five sips of mulled wine, Iām spilling it in the trash. I once liked the taste, but those buds change, donāt they?
Whatās the Draw of Christmas Markets?
Markets are an international affairāespecially in a city the size of Munich. We heard languages from everywhere. What a delight! Ninety-percent of the items are handmade and the balance seemed to be regional. If there were mass-made things, we didnāt see them. Most of the vendors are the creators and like to talk about their crafts. Ethnic foods of the area are huge offerings. You can try a variety of treats, not just sausages of every ilk.
Back in the day when I worked for a German-owned company, I witnessed one or two of them being a bit overexcited. Not so at the markets. The vendors are laid back, the natives are laid back, and so are most visitors. In fact if you see a tourist wigging out, theyāre probably an American. We really need to catch onto that whole chill-out thing. So although youāll be jostled and bumped, donāt be a Rosemary. Lean into the experience of community instead of complaining that youāre too short and tired of being stepped on. I really should be accustomed to that by this age.
History, History Everywhere
Weāre both history fans. Mostly World War II, but history of all ilks captivates us. One chilly, exhausted evening we watched a documentary about Cleopatra. If Iād known about her and Julius Cesar, Iād forgotten it. Same if Iād known sheād had children with him and with Marc Antony, that was also gone from my brain.
The USA has history, of course we do. We have Native American cultures reaching far back and we have the culture created by settlers. But we do not have what Europeans have. There is astounding architecture with buildings adorned by massive statuary. Stonework from bricks to boulders comprise churches, synagogues, town halls, and more. There are details you miss if you donāt look under eaves and stairwells or skip walking that one long corridor. History belongs to the people as much as it belongs to the place.
And that is the point in Christmas Markets. When you stand in a Platz thatās been hosting vendors since the 14th Century, something in you reacts. You sense a continuity of time and the endurance of the human race.
Thatās something even this winter hermit wants to be a part of.
When You Go to the Christmas Markets
Duration
Most of the markets start the last week in November and run through the end of December. Check the link for updates. Simply Munich (#simplymunich) has a brochure with a super helpful map.
Lodging
Book your hotel well in advance. Sources state that 3 million people visit over the duration of the Christmas Markets. The weekends are crazy crowded. We stayed at the Aloft on the Bayerstrasse, with easy access to the subway and train station. (And close to CaāDāoro Italian Restaurant. Choose the ravioli!)
Dining
If there is a particular popular restaurant you want to go to, make reservations. Or do what these crazy Americans do, and eat off-times. While breakfast matches ours, lunch can be from noon until two or soāand dinner usually starts at seven.
Museums
Please donāt skip the Residence Palace! It is comprehensive and architecturally interesting. You want to spend at least a day there.
On Sunday, the Five Continents Museum is only one Euro! They were doing renovations while we were there and there was still a lot to see.
Attire
Like I said above, we checked the weather multiple times and no snow was in the forecast. Donāt be me and believe it! Take winter boots and lots of warm socks. Youāll thank me later.
Tips About Money
Go to an ATM at a bank! Do not get money from any other source! (Santander, HSBC, Deutsche Bank are recognizable institutions.) Iāve never seen at ATM without English as an option. If you bank with a huge facility like we do (PNC), you probably donāt have to let them know youāll be traveling. But why donāt you go ahead and make that call just so they donāt think your card has been stolen! Also, check with your credit card company to make sure they wonāt charge you a fee for the exchange rate. To my surprise, and for the first time, my AmericanExpress charged me! Our Visa cards (via Marriott and United Airlines) did not. Go Visa.
In large cities like Munich, credit cards are wisely used. The USA remains behind the times. European restaurants use a hand-held device to run your card and print a receiptāat your table! Itās a good idea to have cash on hand. Sometimes it is easier to leave tips, especially for maid service.
It was the best of trips; it was the coldest of trips.
And six days in Munich wasnāt nearly enough.
*
Then there’s a tour in a really warm place–Oahu!
I really enjoyed reading this & seeing the pictures! Your notification email landed in my “junk” and I just now saw it. Welcome back.
I’m glad you found me. You would love the markets! Does Lancaster do anything like this?
Usually there are some pop up markets but not to this extent.
A Red Lodge type Christmas stroll would be a lot of fun in Lancaster.
It sounds like a lovely vacation even if it was a snow storm!
I guess that added to it being memorable!
Hi Rosemary, It’s nice to have you back! I loved hearing about the trip to Munich. We were there in the summertime but we did experience Christmas markets in Rome. I love the three wise men I purchased there for $2.50!
I will look forward to hearing about your next adventure.
Munich in the summer is lovely with all of the outdoor dining and walks through the parks. Rome is next on the list, so you and I will have lots to talk about!
What a lovely post, Rosemary! Your new website looks great & it was amazing to reconnect with whatād going on in your life. I hope there was some great chocolate featured in those Christmas markets! Weāre heading to the chocolate festival in Portugal next month & are quite excited to be setting foot on European soil again. Glad your feet survived that cold dampness.
Thank you, Doreen. I know you know how hard it is to do a website. Oh the chocolate! Yes! It was outstanding and I thought of you. Portugal should be lovely and it will be warmer than Munich was!
It sounds wonderful and magical!
It was on par with the lovely Red Lodge Christmas Stroll!