It was the best of trips; it was the worst of trips. 

Just kidding. Being in Munich for the Christmas markets was a treat. We traveled lightly to be out of the country for 16 daysā€”two carryon suitcases and two backpacks. Go us! We checked the weather for weeks ahead of time. Same forecast as Pittsburgh. Our flight went smoothly and we arrived at our hotel not far from Marienplatz on November 29th. Perfect!

The snow started the next day. Just a bit of a sputter. Alex wore his Aslo hiking boots. I wore my cute blue Reikerā€™s Remonte ankle boots, hot off the shelves at Squirrel Hillā€™s Littles Shoes. He also took his On Clouds and I packed my Merrell Encores. Why am I giving so much shoe detail? Because the big guyā€™s feet stayed warm and mine stayed mostly cold.

The following day there was a foot of snow and more coming down. We slogged through the flakes and slush to walk from the trolley to the Nymphenburg Palace. Dang if that site wasnā€™t the only minor disappointment of the trip. There are hundreds of rooms, however, you only get to tour twenty of themā€”the main hall and wings off either side. Since it cost more than the Munich Residence Palace we visited the day before, we felt a bit let down. 

Snow-covered Marienplatz

That evening as we strolled to the main Christmas Market at the Glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the scene resembled a Montana blizzard.

On December second, crews were attempting snow removal like Iā€™ve only ever seen in Red Lodge, Montana. Hereā€™s a picture of me standing in front of one of their works of art. Unlike Red Lodge, Munich doesnā€™t have rodeo grounds to cart it to for March Ski Joring competition. The snow simply kept piling up.

So did my sock collection. I thought Iā€™d packed enough wool socks, but nope, I sure hadnā€™t. By the time we made it home, I had eight new pairs. A galā€™s gotta have warm toes.

The snow finally drifted to a stop by the third. I just read a news article by a worldwide agency stating that the Christmas markets closed. That is incorrect. Past trips showed me that the Germans are a hearty bunch and they confirmed that this time. The markets were packed. People drank their hot mulled wine and cold bottled beer. They stood visiting as if it were a blooming spring day. I paused at one point and gazed around. Truly, had it been warm weather I donā€™t think it could have been more crowded or more relaxed. Was this woman who detests being cold jealous of their endurance? Or fuming at how well they wore the chill? A bit of both!

We Visited Christmas Markets Within Walking Distance 

  • Christkindlmarkt on Marienplatz (since the 14th century)
  • Winter Magic at Viktualienmarkt (food!)
  • Christmas Village in the Kaiserhof of the Residence (Palace)
  • Munich Advent Extravaganza and Medieval Christmas Market
  • Muencher Feueerzangenbowle (traditional Munich fire-tongs punch) at Isartor Gate (with (fake) fire shooting out of the roof!)

Woman in purple coat holding red mug of mulled wine.

Each community market is each unique with some overlap in food and of course, mulled wine. Even with suitcase space taken up with new socks, we managed to bring home two mugs. Most markets have individualized glasses with their name on it. You can buy a drink with a return-deposit or pay for the mug and carry it off. And in my case, after four or five sips of mulled wine, Iā€™m spilling it in the trash. I once liked the taste, but those buds change, donā€™t they?

Whatā€™s the Draw of Christmas Markets? 

Markets are an international affairā€”especially in a city the size of Munich. We heard languages from everywhere. What a delight! Ninety-percent of the items are handmade and the balance seemed to be regional. If there were mass-made things, we didnā€™t see them. Most of the vendors are the creators and like to talk about their crafts. Ethnic foods of the area are huge offerings. You can try a variety of treats, not just sausages of every ilk.

Back in the day when I worked for a German-owned company, I witnessed one or two of them being a bit overexcited. Not so at the markets. The vendors are laid back, the natives are laid back, and so are most visitors. In fact if you see a tourist wigging out, theyā€™re probably an American. We really need to catch onto that whole chill-out thing. So although youā€™ll be jostled and bumped, donā€™t be a Rosemary. Lean into the experience of community instead of complaining that youā€™re too short and tired of being stepped on. I really should be accustomed to that by this age.

History, History Everywhere

Weā€™re both history fans. Mostly World War II, but history of all ilks captivates us. One chilly, exhausted evening we watched a documentary about Cleopatra. If Iā€™d known about her and Julius Cesar, Iā€™d forgotten it. Same if Iā€™d known sheā€™d had children with him and with Marc Antony, that was also gone from my brain. 

The USA has history, of course we do. We have Native American cultures reaching far back and we have the culture created by settlers. But we do not have what Europeans have. There is astounding architecture with buildings adorned by massive statuary. Stonework from bricks to boulders comprise churches, synagogues, town halls, and more. There are details you miss if you donā€™t look under eaves and stairwells or skip walking that one long corridor. History belongs to the people as much as it belongs to the place.

And that is the point in Christmas Markets. When you stand in a Platz thatā€™s been hosting vendors since the 14th Century, something in you reacts. You sense a continuity of time and the endurance of the human race.

Thatā€™s something even this winter hermit wants to be a part of.

When You Go to the Christmas Markets

Duration

Most of the markets start the last week in November and run through the end of December. Check the link for updates. Simply Munich (#simplymunich) has a brochure with a super helpful map.

Lodging 

Book your hotel well in advance. Sources state that 3 million people visit over the duration of the Christmas Markets. The weekends are crazy crowded. We stayed at the Aloft on the Bayerstrasse, with easy access to the subway and train station. (And close to Caā€™Dā€™oro Italian Restaurant. Choose the ravioli!)

Dining

If there is a particular popular restaurant you want to go to, make reservations. Or do what these crazy Americans do, and eat off-times. While breakfast matches ours, lunch can be from noon until two or soā€”and dinner usually starts at seven. 

Museums

Please donā€™t skip the Residence Palace! It is comprehensive and architecturally interesting. You want to spend at least a day there.

On Sunday, the Five Continents Museum is only one Euro! They were doing renovations while we were there and there was still a lot to see. 

Attire

Like I said above, we checked the weather multiple times and no snow was in the forecast. Donā€™t be me and believe it! Take winter boots and lots of warm socks. Youā€™ll thank me later.

Tips About Money

Go to an ATM at a bank! Do not get money from any other source! (Santander, HSBC, Deutsche Bank are recognizable institutions.) Iā€™ve never seen at ATM without English as an option. If you bank with a huge facility like we do (PNC), you probably donā€™t have to let them know youā€™ll be traveling. But why donā€™t you go ahead and make that call just so they donā€™t think your card has been stolen! Also, check with your credit card company to make sure they wonā€™t charge you a fee for the exchange rate. To my surprise, and for the first time, my AmericanExpress charged me! Our Visa cards (via Marriott and United Airlines) did not. Go Visa.

In large cities like Munich, credit cards are wisely used. The USA remains behind the times. European restaurants use a hand-held device to run your card and print a receiptā€”at your table! Itā€™s a good idea to have cash on hand. Sometimes it is easier to leave tips, especially for maid service. 

It was the best of trips; it was the coldest of trips.

And six days in Munich wasnā€™t nearly enough.

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Then there’s a tour in a really warm place–Oahu!