Landing in Hilo, you’re greeted with attitude–tropical heat and foliage.
It’s lush, green, and hot. Remember I warned you, it’s hot.
Hilo is extravagantly verdant—colorful, vibrant blooms and buildings complementing each other. Stroll the town, look for that Shave Ice treat, check out the various stores. The Farmer’s Market is full of fruit this Pennsylvania had never seen.
When you’re ready to leave the tropical humidity, head out to the other side of the island.
Volcanoes National Park, The Big Island*
Volcanoes National Park is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like Haleakala National Park on Maui, being here is like experiencing another universe. While you can hike into the undergrowth to escape the sun, this part of the island is decidedly arid. The landscape matches the air—rough and craggy. This area is similar to hiking in northeastern New Mexico, where you traverse lava fields guided by rock cairns.
When you go, treat yourself to a stay at the Volcanoes Lodge. Upgrade your lodge room to ponder the view of the steamy red/orange volcano. The cost is worth it to drift off to sleep by the glowing light.
Hiking within the Volcanoes Park is easy—trails are clearly marked. It’s a treat to take one of the ranger tours—you’ll new learn things. Don’t miss out on wandering through the steam vent area. The path provides educational signs helping you understand what you’re seeing.
The Pololu Lookout
You can’t hike on this island without treading down and up from the Pololu Valley Lookout. Promise me you won’t!
Parking at the top and gazing out at the view is a treasure, to be sure. Actually descending this steep path to enjoy the forest and beach at the bottom is rewarding. Note that the beach is not for swimming. There can be high tides, nasty undertows, and riptides. Dip your feet in, have a picnic, and get ready for the ascending hike.
Big Island Hiking at Waipi’o Overlook
On the opposite side of the valley, from the south side, is another hike—far more difficult than Pololu. The Waipi’o Valley Overlook consists of a stunning view of the beach and valley. A four-wheel drive vehicle is mandatory for taking the road down to the valley. Even walking it can be strenuous. The Waimanu Valley is used year round for hunting. If you hike, aside from the normal gear, wear brightly colored clothing, and ensure you stick to the trails. This valley trek is not for the casual hiker. It is hard, long, and should be thoroughly planned in advance.
On a Break From Hiking
When you take a rest, make sure to get a delectable island treat—the Malasadas. Ask a local for the best provider in the area. This tasty, airy treat doesn’t disappoint. The other culinary item on Hawaii is the Kona Coffee. Kona coffee, for coffee lovers, is everything you’ve heard it to be. Surprising, the best price in town to bring beans home: Costco.
This Hawaiian island bears repeating. From Hilo Markets to clear night views at the Manuna Loa Observatory, Hawaii waits for you to explore.
(The Solar Observatory is not open to the public, however, there is a great visitor’s center with helpful volunteers.),
**
*Note: This trip was prior to the Kīlauea eruption in 2018.
Read: Kauai
I’m enjoying your Hawaii series a lot. I’ve definitely added it to my list of places to visit.
Glad you like it, Jason. Still a few more to come!
Hi Rose: The Big Island is marvellous, isn’t it? We never made it to Hilo, though, I have indulged in the many confections of Big Island Candies. We loved the Pololu Valley Lookout. Such gorgeous vistas! I’d love to be back there right now!
Me, too, instead of staring out the window at 10″ of snow! HA. Hilo was fun–the Farmer’s Market there was huge and the fruits amazing to see.
I missed Big Island Candies–another reason to go back!
Nice tour Rose. I’ve spent a LOT of time on the Big Island, and my two favorite areas are Volcanoes National Park (the art gallery there is awesome!), and I agree with you about the lodge. The other is Waimea, in fact we’ve considered moving there on more than one occasion. It’s a beautiful Island and well worth a visit.
You have to keep me honest, Marquita, in case I get a place wrong or something!
I’ve noticed that there is a Waimea on each of the three island I’ve been on and keep forgetting to look up the word. Okay, “reddish water.” Do you think that fits?
I can understand your debate of moving there–I truly loved that trip.
Great photos of the lava field and the steam. This sounds like an interesting area to stay and hike. It sounds like there would be a lot of up and down on the hikes. Is that true? This prairie girl also has give her muscles time to adjust when she travels to a place with hills.
The Volcanoes Ranger tour that we took was flat. Come to think of it, all the hikes through the steam areas were flat. Less vertical than the Yellowstone Park Mammoth Hot Springs–which is short, but up and down. The hike down into the crater area is not. Hm, and the lava hike that we took was a good mix of flat and hills. I think you’d be fine. The Diamond Head hike was WAY more strenuous!
Rose, gorgeous pictures again and a fascinating write-up. I love the Waipio Sacred Place. I’ve read a lot about Hawaii, so much amazing history.
I love sitting in the dark when there is a full moon out so can only imagine what it would be like to watch the glow from the volcano – I think that would be the perfect place to meditate and just let life be.
Well said, Lenie. If any place can root these wandering feet in the moment, it would be the beauty of Hawaii–including the orange glow of a volcano!
Hi Rose, lovely photos. The arid area in comparison to the lush green is amazing. I don’t know how soundly I’d sleep with a volcano bubbling nearby. Yikes.
I don’t remember hearing any noise from the volcano–or do you mean simply knowing it’s there? Ah, yes…I get that!
It was amazing to see the Hilo side and then go to the opposite side with black sand beaches and the Volcano’s Park with the aridness. Amazing diversity.
What a great place for vacation, especially considering I am looking at the storm of the year approaching me. I wish I was there right now.
Thanks for sharing this with all of us.
We think Pittsburgh will miss that storm, William…but that was last night’s news. Today, who knows? So, I’ll be pulling the curtains and letting the Hawaii pic scroll across my screen…
The idea of sitting in a hotel room and looking out into the darkness and seeing the glow of a volcano sounds pretty awesome.
Ken, that was such a unique experience. I stayed awake a whole lot later than I usually do, just marveling over it.
Fantastically beautiful photos!
Don’t the fruit pictures make you hungry? Yummy!
Completely loved volcano national park… and the coffee! Another great tour Rose!
Glad you enjoyed it, Jacquie and love that I keep bringing up good memories for you!
Wow! That’s cool. I would love to see Volcano National Park. It looks vast. I love seeing this kind of stuff, it humbles me at what mother nature can do. Thanks for sharing.
Your kids would be amazed by this one, Sabrina. We walked through a lava tube, and you can hike across the bottom of the crater (hope I’m saying the right word for that part of it!). It was unique!
So great to see Hawaii through your eyes and lens and so well explained. Fun to see your header photo and I can identify all but one fruit!
That’s cool, Jamie! You’ll have to educate me. There were so many fruits there that I’d never seen before.