Before the Charleston plantations, I have to give a shout out to Greer, South Carolina.
There’s a charming little town not far from Greenville called Greer. We stopped into “Stomping Grounds” coffee house and wine bar for a bite of lunch and a little reviving. The cappuccino was one of the finest I’ve had this side of the Atlantic. My husband’s sandwich was tasty and substantial while the pastry I ate was simply yummy. We would have enjoyed walking around town more and chatting with locals—friendliness was the cup of the day.
Touring Charleston Plantations
Back to the Charleston area, we toured two plantation houses connected to the same Drayton family.
Completely empty, Drayton House is now owned by the National Trust. Having just toured the Clayton, resplendent in turn of the century finery, walking through this vacant house was bleak.
It was fun to see it from the point of view where you are forced to see the physical structure of the house without decoration. We learned about the construction, how the ceilings were made, and what’s involved in balancing a Palladian architectural design. The docent was missing a South Carolina accent from the docent. “Stay on the carpet! Preservation not restoration!” She stated this over and over again to our group of twelve adults. We got it!
The grand portico entrance to the house was under repair following a disintegration in the structural supports (added after the original building) that made it hazardous. Work was nearly complete, so perhaps when you go, you’ll get to walk in the front door. These plantation grounds are extensive and we had a quick walk to the river before the rains started again.
Approaching Drayton Hall 
Federal Balance of Drayton Hall Rear view Drayton Hall Drayton Hall Fireplace
The Magnolia Plantation
We drove a mile down the road to the even older Magnolia Plantation and were treated to an entirely different experience. This home, while not the original, is still owned by seven descendants of the original builders. The outside was raucous with a children’s Easter egg hunt in process, despite the on/off drizzling and storms. To non-parents, the decibel level of the happy kids was almost enough to drive us away. But we hung in there and as soon as we were invited inside, the greeter asked, Now isn’t that quieter? The stone and stucco construction of the house absolutely dimmed the outside noise.
We were led through the house by a delightful docent from New Jersey, laughing at ourselves still searching for that South Carolina accent.
The docent knew snippets and tidbits and included them at the right time to get a chuckle or an ah from her audience. As a northerner, my understanding of plantation houses didn’t extend much beyond Tara. (If you don’t know Tara … sigh, please read and watch the American Classic, Gone With the Wind and get back to me.) The plainness of this house after the opulence of the Frick Mansion was quite striking. Our docent explained that this was their country house. Being a country girl, that gave me an entirely different understanding of this residence. Of course, it also made me want to track down their city home!
Stroll Plantation Gardens
Had it not been a rainy day, the immense gardens would have been quite pleasant to stroll around. As we were leaving the rains renewed their drenching. (No photography inside the house.)
Rear entrance
Charleston plantations were utterly different and each enticing in their own way. Striking bits of history that happened to have a familial connection.
Have you toured any of the many grand homes in Charleston? Let me know in case we get to return to this friendly city and soak up some more old-south history.
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Read: Historic Savannah
Hi Rose, as a love of history, plantations intrigue me. I have visited only a couple, but find it hard to see the beauty in them as my mind wanders to the past and wonder what events occurred there. Did the generation that still owned the plantation reveal any family history, or was it all about the house? Anyway they just seem to have that heavy cloud over them. Don’t think I could be one to have a big wedding or celebration at a plantation, as seems to be the thing to do now. Loved the pictures though. 🙂
Susan, I understand what you’re saying. I feel that way when we tour the Clayton–Henry Clay Frick’s house. (Post pending). He was such a scoundrel and did not behave in ethical or moral ways (not much anyhow) and yet he left such incredible legacies of art and history.
Not that the end justifies the means, but maybe some of what comes out of the bad can help with redemption?
Wow, I’ve never seen a plantation house. I’ve explored very little of the south (grew up for a few years in Florida, but that isn’t the “true south”) and plantation houses for me are only from movies. Thanks for the amazing pictures. I loved scrolling through your slideshow.
Glad you enjoyed the show, Erica. One of these days I hope you get to experience the Southern Hospitality!
Fascinating business to walk through doorways that in a way may take one back through time. Not just intellectually but also imaginatively. Did you find yourself doing much imagining of what “your” life might have been like had you lived there as owner, child, governess, slave, or ?
I guess I too am a Northerner, being from Canada. My perceptions also include Tara, plus southern chivalry, social elites and non-elites and civil war. Thanks for such a great share.
Thanks, Ramona! You are so right about feeling transported walking through the doorway. My writer’s imagination was wild with all sorts of thoughts of: what if…
Thx for this plantation tour, Rose. I’ve never spent any time in South Carolina, although I once transfer via the Charleston airport. But I will get a chance to visit North Carolina next year for the NATJA conference. It will be held in Orange County. What would you say is the major difference between North and South Carolina?
Welcome, Doreen! I’ve yet to go to North Carolina, so can’t begin to start what would be the same/different. Probably like comparing Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. 🙂 Such different cities.
Lovely Rose Mary. Not to put a downer on their majestic beauty, but I am curious if any of the information or artifacts in the plantations relate to their earlier history with slavery since that played such a big role in their history. Thanks for sharing your journey, must have been a terrific trip!
Yes, Marquita. The docents were quite open about the slaves–before and after freedom.
Even with a raining day, the plantations looked wonderful. I have only been to Monticello when I was a kid. It amazes me how many people is needed to maintain the plantation. I have to add these to my list of places to visit. Thanks for sharing.
Monticello is definitely on my list, Sabrina. I hope to get there this summer.
Thanks for sharing the history of Drayton Hall. Although now deserted it would have been crowded with workers many years ago.
The space in America just blows me away – it really does!
This country is HUGE, Phoenicia! You can spend the same amount of hours driving west-east across Montana that you can driving from Montana to Texas. Germany fits inside Montana. I get overwhelmed sometimes!
This week you covered some of South Carolina where I haven’t been, including both Greer and the plantation houses. I love the overal architecture of Charleston, in the city as well as in the big houses. As a fellow northernor, it is what you expect the South to look like, but so few places do.
You’re right, Ken–as far as what us Northerners expect to see! It was sure an eye-opening trek through South Carolina with the surprises of Greer and Greenville and the tradition of Charleston.
Wow, thanks for post. It looks very nice and if I am around, I would like to check the place.
Kristina, South Carolina has a lot of good stuff to see–hope you get there.
I loved reading about Plantation houses – didn’t much care for the cruelty that was associated with them – but the sheer beauty of the houses and the decadent lifestyle of the residents was always an interesting read. Of course, I know Tara (frankly Scarlett………). I’ve also read a lot of books by Eugenia Price about that time in history.
Drayton House was beautiful but the Magnolia Plantation House was amazing. Can you imagine living there? All those pillars and balconies and the beautiful gardens. I can just see me sitting on one of those balconies, with a little paper fan and sipping a mimosa. Care to join me?
Lenie, your comments always make me smile! Yes, I’ll join you for a mimosa anytime, anywhere!
Yes, the history has a taint that we can’t hide from, that’s for sure. Too much world history does. I hope that we all keep evolving beyond these things.
Let’s worry about stuff tomorrow, eh? Twiddle dee dee.
I love touring old homes and was able to visit two of the most popular ones in Charleston but didn’t have a chance to make it to any outside the city. I have seen quite a few along the River Road outside of New Orleans though.
I’ve got to get back to New Orleans for just that reason, Jeri. Okay for lots of reasons. 🙂
I know you’re not in Montana, but if you get to Billings, the Moss Mansion is a fun one to tour.
Just as soon as I finish exploring England, Rose! Hehehe!
Very nice post. I love the photo from the first house of the outdoor steps that go up/down on 2 sides! I also love that you talk about places you stopped for meals. I always appreciate when bloggers add that kind of info because when we take adventures, we are always looking for the “non-chain” kinds of places to try. I’m adding “Stomping Grounds” to our list to visit the next time we are in that area. Although I’m not familiar with plantation houses in SC, if you ever make it to GA, there are some plantation houses in Roswell, GA that offer tours. The town of Roswell is nice and you can walk from one house to the next pretty easily. (visitroswellga.com will give you some more info if you are interested!)
Thanks, Maureen. Sometimes Alex has work in GA, but none of those trips have been the kind that I could tag along on. Yet!
Thanks for including the link. I like that you can walk from house to house–fun. Yeech to chain restaurants.
Completely different experiences. Personally, I love the idea that Drayton Hall is in the exact state that it was at then end of the Civil War. I find something hauntingly beautiful about that. Preservation vs Restoration is a philosophy, don’t you think? A question I ask myself while contemplating a face lift:)
Brahaha, Jacquie, you always crack me up. Drayton Hall was a shock because I randomly picked it without reading that it was empty. So coming off the Frick opulence, it was a yowser. But what a great way to appreciate the house details!
Facelift…you’re a crazy woman!
Well written! I haven’t visited many plantations (said the embarrassed southerner), so thank you for the mini trip and the photos!
Get busy, Joy!