The Carbon County Historical Society Museum in Red Lodge, Montana is a slice of western history not to be missed.
If you think small town museums are hokey or not well-curated, you’ll happily discover you’re wrong visiting this one. Step into the former Labor Temple Built in 1909 by local miners and learn. This nicely appointed building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The historical society’s mission, “…to preserve and communicate the history of the Cabin County area.”
Certain family names are recognizable even to a newcomer to Red Lodge. The Greenoughs, Waples, and Linderman have a long history of rodeo and ranching. The area was once heavily mined for coal—my first home in Red Lodge was a transplanted miner’s shack. It was the right size for one person, but I don’t know how a whole family lived in it.
There are rotating exhibits changing at least annually. The traveling exhibit while we toured was “Parading Through History, the Crow People.” (On loan from the Western Heritage Center in Billings).
Jeremiah Johnson–a Slice of Western History
The original John “Liver Eating” Johnston’s cabin is located at the north entrance to Red Lodge alongside the Chamber of Commerce. There is a perfect replica in miniature inside the museum. For fans of the Robert Redford movie, Jeremiah Johnson, know it was fiction. The real Johnston was Red Lodge’s first constable and never a mountain man. Maybe—or not—a man who got his wicked reputation by eating a dead warrior’s liver. At six feet tall and 220 pounds, he was a mountain of a man for the 1880s. Perhaps Johnston’s size is where the poetic license stems from.
Liver Eatin’ was known to tipple a brew with Buffalo Bill Cody at the then Spofford, now Pollard, Hotel. If you want four-star accommodation in the center of town, this is the place to check out (or check in!). If nothing else, make reservations for an elegant dining experience. Or opt for the more casual pub side and perhaps enjoy a live local band. Guaranteed to get your boots stomping.
Back to the Historical Society
It was a eerie to go into the basement and walk through the simulated coal mine. It’s dark and there is equipment that the miners would have used. There are remnants from nearby Washoe’s Smith Mine. In 1943, 74 out of 77 working miners were killed in an explosion. The disaster was the largest mining loss of life in Montana and the mine was never re-opened.
An exhibit we enjoyed was the home-country attire of folks who settled in the area. The Red Lodge Festival of Nations was once an amazing week-long event celebrating every nationality. Events included dancing, traditional attire, and classic games from those countries. Sadly, 2016 was the last year for it due to lack of volunteers. With that event ending, it was nice to see some of the clothing on hand.
If you want to see a huge fire arms display, head to Cody and visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West Museum. An entire wing of this vast facility devoted to munitions. In the meantime, enjoy several vintage rifles and revolvers on display.
When You Go
The museum is on Broadway—Red Lodge’s main street—and can’t be missed.
Winter days are limited, so check the site before you go. Summer hours are Tuesday-Saturday from Memorial through Labor Day weekends.
Hours are 10:00 – 4:00 and allow at least one hour.
Cost is minimal for adults with many discounts—making adding a donation a breeze.
The adjoining gift shop—The Mercantile—puts you in mind of packages wrapped in brown paper and bound with twine. If you don’t know the reference, get to watching some Westerns. You’re sure to find some cowboy-themed items to pop into your luggage as tidbits for remembering your visit.
Read: Finding Great Hiking Sandals for all those western jaunts
I live just west of Red Lodge about 12 miles. I have been to this museum but it has been many years. Checking it out again seems like a good idea!
Meet you there Tuesday at 11:00. 🙂
RoseMary, I worked for Anaconda many years ago, located in Butte, Montana, site of the “pit,” which was a huge copper mine that was gradually taking over the city. I enjoyed the museum tour. Montana truly is “big Sky” country. It’s beautiful and the people living there still have that pioneering spirit.
Jeannette, Butte is a surprisingly attractive city for having that huge copper pit in the middle of it!
The folks do have that pioneer approach to life. When the weather dictates so much of what you can or cannot do, you find ways of pushing through and dominating it so you can lead the life you want.
People are familiar with Robert Redford as “Jeremiah Johnson” and do not know it is based on Liver Eating Johnson. That movie was not totally fiction. His vendetta against the Crow tribe was based on them killing his wife. In the end he had supposedly killed over 300 of them when the feud ended 25 years later. He also had been a trapper and woodhawk, so I guess its what your definition of a mountain man is.
I guess it is like the line from “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance”: ” This is the West, sir,” the character explains, ” When the legend becomes fact, print the legend”,
I love that line from Liberty Valence, William.
It’s obvious that there was lots of fiction in Jeremiah Johnson just because the real guy wasn’t anything as handsome as Redford!
I love small town museums. They often contain a wealth of treasures and may well-curated by dedicated volunteers with a passion for history. I’ve come across some amazing small town museums. It looks like Carbon County Historical Society Museum is also amazing.
We share that love, Donna. It’s such fun to learn about the history of small towns and the people who helped make them what they are.
Interesting article – thank heavens for museums or their Historical Society Preservation. Right now there seems to be a movement to rewrite (or hide) history, like the removal of statues, both in the States and here in Canada. I detest that thinking. Museums like in Red Lodge are necessary.
BTW – I’m sure you’re not aware but I often call my husband ‘hokey’ – a takeoff on his name LOL
Hokey Doug, eh? haha, Lenie! Yes, I agree that we need these museums–all museums–keeping history accurate. When we toured George Washington’s Mount Vernon we learned more about his slave keeping and how that terrible institution was legally handled. Appalling, but we can’t judge people then for everything we know now. Slavery is wrong–always–but all we can do now is make sure it doesn’t keep happening. Eradicating George or Thomas Jefferson from our history would still only be telling half the story. Whew–tangent!
Hi Rose Mary, Well you know how much I love Wyoming so if I ever make it to Montana I’ll be sure to check out this museum. I LOVE local museums, my favourite ever was The Giant Angus MacAskill on the Isle of Skye. Sadly I can’t think of any in Pembrokeshire to recommend – I suspect we are too busy going to the beaches and walking the coastal path there!
All of Pembrokeshire is a museum to me, Monika! It’s the availability of seeing castles all over Wales–so amazing. We liked the Pembroke Castle. With so much of it intact and all the displays, that’s pretty close to a museum. I’d like to go to the Isle of Skye sometime.
Red Lodge seems like an excellent place to visit, Rose Mary! I really hope to cross Montana off my bucket list soon. Excellent a must visit museum. 🙂
If you like winter, Agness, I’d head to Montana now and enjoy some excellent skiing. Red Lodge, Big Sky, Bridger Bowl–all manner of good places to ski.
Thanks a lot for the prompt and detailed answer, Rose Mary! I am adding it to my bucket list. 😉
I love local museums. Did you ever visit the Baldwin House when you were in Maui? Priceless! Carbon County Historical Museum definitely looks intriguing and I hope to have a chance to visit it sooner rather than later – if for no other reason than to find out who the guy is with the crazy hair in the lower left-hand side of that photo with “Liver Eatin”.
Marquita, the crazy haired fellow is Liver Eatin circa 1876-1877. I think he looks like Charles Manson!
I didn’t go to the Baldwin House, but it rings a bell, so we must have driven by it while touring the island. Always so much to do and so little time, right?
I like your use of the word ‘hokey!’ This looks like a pretty, quaint town- the type that has nice cafes where the workers know virtually everyone who eats there.
Whilst I enjoy visiting museums and taking my children too, I would struggle going into the basement to look at remnants of the mines. The thought of men being so far underground with little light and I presume, narrow spacing makes me feel uncomfortable. I do not like confined spaces and sprint through alleyways when out walking.
Red Lodge is a quaint town with a lot of the everyone knows everyone going on, Phoenicia. I’m with you on the coal mines–I couldn’t do it!
There’s nothing about mining that doesn’t seem awful to me. I’ve been on a couple different mine tours and I never took my eye off the nearest exit. Looks like a really interesting museum.
Ken, have you watched Poldark? The mining scenes from that era terrorize me. What a job! Hey, when you make it west again, just pop up to Red Lodge and check it out.
Great article, Rose Mary. I think I’d enjoy this museum!
You would–the history was a lot of fun!