If you don’t make it to a Hollywood bash to stroll the rolled-out red rug, try ambling along the Ligurian version.
In looking for fun and different things to do, our hotel proprietor suggested the freshly unveiled and longest Red Carpet (Germany formerly held the Guinness title). Following the 8.33 kilometer path from Rapallo to Portofino was something we tried to complete twice. We might have failed in making the full-length to Portofino, but we sure enjoyed our visits to Santa Margherita Ligure.
The Red Carpet starts at the Rapallo Castle and ends at Portofino’s Church of San Martino. We got to walk on both ends just not the middle! It was fun to watch people on the promenades intentionally choose to walk on the carpet even when yards of sidewalk was available on either side of it. Okay, I admit it, we did, too.
When you make this journey, be sure to look around and up as you step along. There are grand buildings like the Imperiale Hotel, old gates, mosaics in front of doorways, and flowers spilling over rails or climbing up walls—and always—people-spying to be done.
Santa Margherita is beautiful
The old town is full of winding streets in turn full of businesses, shops, and restaurants. One beautiful structure not to miss is the Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia. The buttercream exterior draws you in with a promise of cool air and intricate paintings. As you gently open the door and quietly step inside, perhaps you’ll find that Mass is winding down. As the congregants turn to each other in the traditional greeting, “Peace be with you,” an elderly woman standing nearby will exchange a smile. You’ll have a moment of acknowledgment that you are sharing the same experience … and be humbled.
Other dominant buildings include the oldest civil monument, the Civic Tower, built in 1473 as a symbol of freedom, and the Saint Stephen Church, which is the oldest rural church of the village. There’s also the requisite castle, but finding information on it proves a challenge. Do you think they knew they were making the sea-facing front of it look like a face?
Dining in Santa Margherita
On our first jaunt, we enjoyed an afternoon respite at the Black Stallion located down an inviting alley. This was our first stop for an adult beverage in the afternoon (I think it was the first!) and to our surprise, the crisp white wine came with a generous bowl of potato chips and an array of focaccia pizza bites. We told the server we hadn’t ordered anything and she said, no, it goes with the wine. It was such a lot of food that we thought we should order another glass of wine for her efforts. But then, what would happen if more food came? We pondered getting drawn into an endless loop and not making it back to our hotel until the next morning!
The Ristorante Skipper was a highlight of our second visit for a couple of reasons. It’s located on the harbor and has several tables located on a barge adjacent to the pier. There is a cozy interior with charming decor. From the outside tables, you have a wonderful view of the boats, the strollers, and the city of Santa Margherita across the water.
The food was delicious—it’s easy to get addicted to the regional dish of Trofie pasta with pesto, the ravioli was tender as could be…and the dessert…ah, the dessert. If you know how to make pistachio tiramisu with a smooth and creamy pistachio sauce, let me know. My taste buds are still craving a repeat.
Navigating Italian Towns
The signs in Italy that separate the towns can cause a giggle—the city name with a red line drawn through it. What a clear way to let you know when you’ve entered a new municipality.
Santa Margherita doesn’t have the festival feel to it of Camogli. It’s relaxed but busy—like a city going about everyday life that may or may not include meandering tourists. Let me know if you plan on being one of those lucky visitors.
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I feel like you live such an exciting my life from reading your blog. I want to hide in your luggage so I can experience some of the excitement. The one time I went to Europe, I got to go down a red carpet too. I was in Scotland with a show I performed in, and we went to a restaurant called Oscars (like Academy Award.) My husband, who was also in the show and not at all even my boyfriend at the time was there too. And my best friend had just started dating his best friend. And since his friend bought my friend a drink, my now husband took pity on me and bought me a drink even though we were just friends. And the drink made me so ill. I couldn’t even move. And everyone left to go to a club, and Joe had to stay with me. And I spent the whole night running over and over down the red carpet to the bathroom to be sick. (I think I was allergic to the dairy in Scotland and he got me a drink with cream.) I bet it never occurred to him that he was spending the evening with his future wife at that time. It was one of my unsexiest moments ever. But I always remember it when I see red carpets.
Dear Erica, sometimes your delightful comments make me laugh out loud! Not laughing at your being ill–that is the pits, especially on a trip–but am laughing at the circumstance with you and your future husband. That’s a kick!
I dream of putting together a women’s trip some day–wouldn’t that be the best fun ever?
We consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have these trips. It all started when my husband was working for a French company and I had a part-time cyber job so could travel with him. Now we get to go because the king of points often works out the most incredible deals. Like right now we have $300 in United air miles–each–to spend. Where shall we go next? CA and see a few folks there? 🙂
The red carpet is so interesting. I would hate to the person with the vacuum cleaner that has to clean that every day.
Again, the architecture is amazing, the old European style, and even the castle. Not sure if I would want to come back.
Ha ha, William! I did see them hosing it off occasionally–I don’t think it rained at all while we were there.
I think, too, that one trip to Europe and you’d relocate!
The longest red carpet indeed. I am sure everyone feels like a celebrity walking on it 🙂
Italy has a rich taste in architecture and food. It is definitely showing up in your posts.
Thanks, Moumita, glad you enjoyed this post–when you have time check out the other Italy posts. I love visiting the history of this country!
I like the idea of walking on a “red carpet”. I would probably have to ask the paparazzi to steady on – all those bright lights gazing at you!
This looks like an unspoilt town. One you can go to relax in and reflect. I imagine a lot of culture can be found on such a place – something I definitely look for when choosing a holiday destination.
What a bonus that the wine is brought out with crisps and snacks at the Black Stallion. They know how to look after their customers.
It was fun, Phoenicia. Would have been a kick to do it in an evening gown!
Santa Margherita was busy with people going about their business, but yet it was a calm atmosphere. We really enjoyed strolling around and know there was a lot more to see than what we saw.
The carpet looks painted on in the upper-picture of your post, and that one most caught my eye. It does look like a real carpet in the picture later on in the post, however.
Fun perception, Jeri.
The red carpet to Santa Margherita sound like fun. I like how you noted people will walk on it even though there is a lot of space on either side. However, I call cheating since it’s painted on the pavement and not really a carpet ;)j
It’s not paint, Jeri, it really is a carpet. There were places the workers were even laying new carpet pieces because it had gotten so worn.
Walking the red carpet inn Santa Margherita sounds like a lot of fun with plenty to see and places to stop to eat and drink along the way.
You nailed it, Donna! It’s all those things and just such fun to do–and people watch while strolling.
Must be worth the trek just for that ravioli.
Do I detect another ravioli fan, Ken? Oh yum! I can still feel it melting in my mouth. Great pasta!
Hi Rose: I would love to go to Santa Margherita. It would probably be the only Red Carpet I’ll ever get to walk! 🙂 But I DO love the Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio wine. With some of that pasta, I’d be in heaven!
I’ll have to look for that wine here, Doreen. We always just ask for the house wine, so who knows what we drank? It was good.
The church is exquisite! I’m envious that you got to explore in Santa Margherita.
We’ll make a list of churches to visit in Wales next year, Jackie!