Starting your Italian adventure from the Malpensa Airport near Milan is easy for an American to do right.
I’ve begun most of my Italian train travel via the Malpensa Airport. There was a notable landing in Pisa once using Ryan Air, but that’s another story.
Malpensa has led me to Florence, Genoa, Bologna, Parma, The Cinque Terre, Portofino, Rapallo. Aren’t the names magical? Even pronouncing Bah-lone-ya is pretty. Am I right?
The baggage area includes some of the longest conveyor belts you’ll see. Stay patient as people retrieve their suitcases, rapidly moving away in a graceful ballet.
Getting through passport control requires only that you remain calm and speak politely.
Note about travel on Italian trains.
When you have an open ticket, (not pre-purchased on paper) validate it before getting on the train. Machines are everywhere near the tracks and easy to use.
There are simple to follow instructions for getting the airport train that runs you directly to Milano Centrale Station.
Purchasing Train Tickets at Malpensa Airport
My first trip, I accidentally skipped the train and got on a bus to reach the city. What a ride. Er, yeah, don’t.
Procedures had changed since our previous trip and we rode the wrong direction. These mistakes tend to work out because we made a new friend from Boston. Tony was having his first Italian adventure, meeting up with his wife. We were able to give him some Milan tips and help him get off at his proper stop. Don’t be concerned about making an error. The announcements are clear, the stations are signed, and the marquee tells you which station is next.
Use the self-operated kiosk to buy your tickets for the Tren (train) to Milano Centrale. Press the British flag, apply logic (forward = continue) and you’re good to go. Don’t hesitate to ask the ticket seller which platform the Malpensa to Milano Centrale departs from.
Near the train biggliteri (ticket) office, find The Time Cafe. Have an excellent espresso and perfect cappuccino for less than one Starbucks latte.If you need a brief snack, indulge in a fresh pastry.
Keep walking toward the usicta (exit) for a brief treat in a darkened space between the airport and the train station. It’s lit with soothing blue lights from the floor up and for some reason a mist descends from the ceiling. To cool you? Refresh you? Let me know how you feel after. I find myself giggling with the joy of a kid playing in a fountain on a hot August day.
Tren signs are to recognize—accompanied by the image of a train heading your way. Arrows finalize the directions. If you’ve managed to get lost already, you must be tired. Take a breath and start over.
Did You Pre-purchase Specific Train Seats
Check both the car number and the seat number assignment. We opt to sit with the table between us, having already sat side by side for nine hours of flying. Verify your seat numbers before plopping down. In general, the Italians are very nice if you sit in the wrong seat, but the conductor might be a bit abrupt in straightening you out.
There is usually a drink and food cart rolling along the aisle during your journey. Prices are a bit higher than in the station, but I’ve nabbed a good cappuccino en route.
Some trains have free wifi, and there are electrical outlets, just be sure you brought your adapter. But instead of working on that laptop, take time to look out the window and notice what’s speeding by. You’ll sometimes see artistic graffiti, often fields of hay, and scattered puddles of bright flowers in multiple colors.
The train bathrooms are clean, but those automatically rising toilet seats can be a bit tricky. Like on the plane that brought you here, green means it’s available while red means it’s occupied. Isn’t universal bathroom language great?
If you have a wonderfully easy-to-roll-through-the-airports suitcase with 4-wheels, bully for you and me. But why they aren’t made with brakes is a puzzle. They fit between the seats, but lay them on their sides to prevent an escapee from bumping into someone. There’s also a luggage rack above your head that will hold backpacks and lighter suitcases. Be careful to stow it properly so it doesn’t get jostled off onto your head.
The Last Tip for Your First Italian Train Ride
Make sure to press the green button when trying to exit both the car and train. Standing in front of it thinking it’s automatically going to open for you same as the grocery store? Yeah, that doesn’t work.
Milano Centrale Railway Station
This is one of the prettiest, bustling train stations I’ve been in. Look down, look up and glance around. The architecture and design is ornate, making every visitor wistfully think of glamorous travel times long past.
Milan Centrale has added a security level. If you have to exit the platform areas, be prepared for scrutiny when you re-enter.
The signage board is quite simple—the train number, the farthest destination on the train line, and the bin or platform number. If you see a slew of names buzzing by—those are the stops on the line.
You’re ready to go, aren’t you?
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Read: After that train ride takes you to Rapallo, walk to Santa Margherita
Seester reminded me of what I said when we arrived in Milan. She had extravagantly taken me there for my 50th birthday. I had never been out of the United States before so the entire trip was a little daunting to me. But never fear my sister had flown overseas by herself before so I knew she had this all under her belt. We made it outside of the airport and I looked at her and said “now what?” Thinking she had a grand plan imagine my surprise when she looked back at me and said “I have no idea.” We burst into laughter and hence began a trip of a lifetime. And it is how we have traveled ever since….we just figure it out…together.
That was hilarious, Seester! I knew we’d solidified our BFF status when you didn’t reach over and smack me a good one! We’ve gotten better at figuring out our logistics and just saying to heck with it when a wrinkle comes along. Like the last day in Saundersfoot, Wales, when we kept roaming around saying, What do you want to do today? We ended up spending the entire day doing that and it was utterly perfect!
Rose Mary – you make your travels sound so much fun. I have a story about train travel in Europe. My sister and her daughter went to Holland with my niece constantly taking pictures. Then on impulse they decided to take a train to Paris (sorry, not Italy) and returning to Holland my niece realized she had left her camera on the train. Naturally she was all upset – there go all her vacation photos. Well, guess what. She called whatever powers that be in France and someone had turned her camera in – the train people then sent the camera back to her by train at no charge – all she had to do was go to the train station in Holland to retrieve it. So when you talk about traveling by train in Europe, she would be the first one to hop aboard.
BTW – thanks for the gorgeous photography.
That is a wonderful story about the generosity of human nature, Lenie! I’ll bet the photos are even more precious to her. I lost my camera for a few hours when Jackie and I were in the Cinque Terre. I thought it was on the train and long gone. Lucky for me that I’d actually left it at our Inn, La Toretta, and the awesome proprietor there had hung onto it for me. Whew!
Some of the best trips I ever took, I was never in a car.
It is nice that trains, and other mass transit is available. I also like countries, like Italy, where you can rent a vespa or other type of moped. That is not bad traveling, you go fast enough to get somewhere, but not too fast you miss the surroundings.
I so want a vespa, William. But then I’d have to live somewhere that a vespa would be practical, wouldn’t I? Darned complications! Favorite trip without a car?
It was great to see beautiful pictures of Milan and detailed posts and advice for traveling. Your coffee seems amazing and it looks, you have enjoyed your coffee and Milan a lot.
I will remember the tip of pressing green button while traveling by car or train if visited Milan.
Hi Andleeb, Welcome back to the musings! I love Italian coffee and crave it for months after being there even though we’ve spoiled ourselves with a Nespresso at home. Those darned validating machines–easy to overlook.
Thank you for sharing your beautiful photographs of Milan and such detailed travelling advice. I must say you look stunning sipping coffee with your short red crop!
I am yet to visit Italy, it is one of my places to go but perhaps not high up enough on the list. The Italian Riviera and the church/cathedral are so picturesque. Lots of culture which is what I look for on a holiday. I want to learn about the people, their values, their cuisine.
We would travel well together, Phoenicia, since we like the same things–conversing with people, eating local food, soaking it all in. I hope this post will help you when you do get to schedule an Italian vacation!
Ah Rose Mary, this reminds me of when I was 18 and spent a month travelling around Italy with a friend on a open ticket. It wasn’t quite so automated then! But obviously just as beautiful and as much fun. We just had rucksacks then – suitcases with wheels would have been a luxury… I love Italy, but haven’t been back for a while. Hm, maybe time to start planning a trip!
Definitely time to go back, Monika. I’ve been lucky enough to go eight times and each trip has been unique and special. I think the month-long, backpacking would appeal to me. Oh to the train rides!
The only time I’ve spent in Italy was the drive over Stelvio Pass and back. I’d love to spend more time there one of these days. I’ve never spent much time on a train either. I had thought about doing an overnight train from Amsterdam to Munich, but then decided to take a short flight instead. Trying to sleep on a train would be an experience, and probably one of not very good sleep!
I so want to do an overnight train, Jeri! I’m dying (pun) to see Murder on the Orient Express so that I can dream (pun) about an overnight trip! The first class, high-speed Italian train was amazing. So comfortable. What airplanes used to be like!
Hi Rose. I’ve not yet been to Milan, but have definitely ridden the Italian trains, and overall, had a great experience. Except that on our trip, the elevator at the Florence station was broken, and so we had to carry our very heavy luggage down the stairs to cross the platform and make our connection. After that trip, I learned NOT to travel with one of those mega big suitcases.
Same lesson learned here, Doreen, when Jackie and I traveled to the Cinque Terre. Our luggage was lost for 7 of our 10 day trip and by then–knowing the size of the suitcases–we tried to get them to send them home instead of to us!
The train in Milan sounds lovely. How nice that there are assigned seats. I used to take Amtrak quite a bit when I lived on the East Coast. But that was they days before you would get wifi on a train which sounds like it would make everything so much more entertaining. Though looking out the window is nice too. Sometimes it is just the simple things.
They barely have trains in California. The one time I bought an Amtrak ticket, I was horrified to learn I was taking a bus.
Erica, I actually rode my first train from San Diego to–hmmm, wasn’t Oceanside, but a little place very near it. Sometime in 2005, maybe That’s when I first learned about validating a ticket–because I didn’t! The conductor looked at my bewildered expression and rightly guessed, “First train ride?” He helped me out.
I’d be sorely disappointed to wind up on a bus if I thought I was getting a train!
Milano Centrale is such a beautiful train station. It’s stunnng when you first see it. An attraction in itself. No reason to travel any other way in Italy.
My first trip to Italy, we flew in/out of Pisa and my friend rented a car. First time I ever got car sick with speeding fast around those curvy roads. I’m quite happy opting for a train now!
As soon as I saw the title of your article I had to jump over here and read it! I have so many amazing memories of Italy, but your reference to skipping cars brought back a doozy. When we left the airport we took a taxi to our hotel, and I will remember that ride for the rest of my life. The driver wove in and out of traffic, drove up on sidewalks honking for pedestrians to get out of the way, he went down narrow streets barely missing food stands and squealed around fountains crowded with tourists – humming and singing a little song to himself all the way. Meanwhile, we were in the back seat eyes wide and clinging to each other for dear life. When he finally pulled up in front of our hotel he jumped out, flung the back door open, bowed and said “Welcome to Rome!” with a huge grin on his face. What a rush!
Hilarious, Marquita! I would have been SO carsick from his maneuvers. Luckily, those few times I’ve taken a taxi, I didn’t have someone trying out for a spot in a crazy movie with crazy drivers!
Ha ha….you make it sound so easy!! I remember being somewhat confused when we went to Italy together. Thankfully the helpers were all so kind! Yes, I think being kind and smiling instead of agitated and irritated go a long way in a foreign country!
Yes, from the charming older ticket clerk who blew us kisses in Genoa to all the others who helped two novice travelers in Italy make their way! So much fun, Seester!